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            It is now   =   10:34   in  SanFrancisco
                        =   19:34   in  Berlin

W O R L D   T I M E   C L O C K        » K U N D O «        (1960)
( 23 cm Diameter )     Kieninger & Obergfell, St.Georgen / Germany

The world map is shown in "North Polar Projection".  GMT is on the
bottom.  This "tic-tac" clock  has a  "balanced spring"  mechanic.
A battery powered motor  winds up the main spring  every 4 minutes
due to a MECHANICAL(!) TIMER. A 12 HOUR FACE shows the LOCAL TIME.
The outer ring with 24 HOURS  shows  the TIME-ZONES & WORLD CITIES
with DAY & NIGHT.

R E M A R K S :

View without plastic cover / battery holder ...


The red/black marks on the right side indicates where the contacts
of the battery are connected when the cover is mounted. From there
cables  with clips  go direct  to the motor.  The On/Off-Switch is
INSIDE (!) THE MOTOR. On the Motor-Axle is a HELIX-Gear mounted.
This HELIX drives the PLASTIC-Gear. On its Axle below (s.pic.right)
is the SPRING and a BRASS-Gear, what drives the clock-work.
HOW IT WORKS (s.Pic.left): Inside the PLASTIC-Gear is a RING with a
"Nose-DOWN" through a "Cut-Out" and a PAIR "Noses-UP" on top. From
the BRASS-Gear a ROD (s.>>>> MARK !) pushes the "Nose-DOWN" to the
end of the "Cut-Out"... moves the PLASTIC-Gear... HELIX... Motor-
Axle... Power-ON... Motor ON: The Clock-Spring gets wind. Important
Detail: The "Black-L-LEVER" has a SPRING on its end, touching the
PLASTIC-Gear on a "Nose-UP", building-up TENSION... When released,
the L-LEVER push HELIX... Motor get power, turns and "over-shoot"
until the PLASTIC-Gear stop and the Motor-Axle will return to idle
(=OFF)Position. This assembly works as a MECHANICAL-TIMER.


Nothing worked - also not after oiling and cleaning contacts ...
To open  the motor  a little  force  was necessary - and  2 hidden
pins,  holding the  axle/contact plate,  cracked its plastic.  Now
the V-shaped  inner contacts  where visible and  obvious unable to
touch the collector of the motor.  Shaped it right with trial-and-
error:  They have  to give contact  when the axle is  in its right
position, and out of contact  otherwise.  2 CLIPS, made out of CAT
FOOD CAN ( fixed with tape ), holding in place the plastic plate
on the cast metal motor housing.
The  helix-gear  was loose  and  needed a new  connection:  On the 
motor axle  is a one-turn spring  mounted  and through the slot of
the helix-gear fixed. The exact position of the helix-gear on the
axle is part of the fine-tuning procedure ...
The Tuning-Procedure had to be made with an AmpMeter "In-the-Loop"
to make sure, that the Motor-On/Off is working perfect. To make the
»KUNDO« working again is difficult (+ time-consuming) because many
parameters have to be adjust "right" at the same time ...


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© C.HAMANN       12/14/14